The Austin Statesman (Austin, Tex.), Vol. 39, No. 89, Ed. 1 Sunday, March 29, 1908 Page: 16 of 20
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White satin........
Broadcloth ........
Lace waists....... ..
Rough silk.'..:......
Chiffon cloth.......
'Two lingerie gowns.
White silk slip......
Evening cape......
Utility coat.'......,
Neglgees .........
Hats .............
Shoes .............
lores ............
HIngerie ..........
bilk ...............
Stockinge ........
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■ TAE AUSTIN STATESMAN; SUNDAY,' MARCH 20,’ 1908.'
------------—■ ———--’ - L -------
satin ate seen in several designs in
Smoke tints, brightened by white lace
bands or with silver ad gold embroidery,
but no distinctive bits of coloring such
as are afforded by oriental trimmings.
In the lightest shades of gray—meaning
the pearl tints- ate charming pongee:silk
street costumes fof quite young women.
These are made with finely plaited skirts
and hip length semlfitting coats, unre-
satin and worn with
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Various Types of Tailored Costumes-
Much Braid and Many Buktons-
Gener:
Cut Bion
\ 108 Wet
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may easily be put together by the bride-
cleet, who can also make the taffeta
slip at a cost of about $:2.
Two separate waists, one of black and
the other of white Ince to be worn with
-the broadcloth and. rough-silk suits or
with any extra skirts, should be pur-
chased ready-made, for about 120 apiece,
as at that price a!) the, materials will
be of excellent quality and wel repay
one for the expenditure.
White or pale tinted broadcloth at $4
n yard shonid be selected for the circu-
lar evening cape. Allowing $18 for the
ontside, $10 for the lininga and trimmings
and $4 for the seninstresses’ labor, such
a cloak need not cost over 125.
Whether or nbt the utility cloak be of
rubberized satin or of .the waterproof
English mohair. It shou be in some neu-
tral tint lnrmonizing with the various
other garments of the wardrobe it will
handsomest of the long skirt and coat
suits; soma are covered with cloth simi-
Ur to the costume and others with match-
ing silk or satiu. A particularly stunning
•Id rose cloth has a demitralned gored
•klrt, relieved soiely with heavily stitched
shallow side plaits, set widely apart, and
a loose coat, with ahort-walsted back and
cutaway fronts similarly plaited, deeply
tucked three quarters* loose sleeves and
soutache-braided walstcoat, the chief fea-
caplng the ground, laid In very deep box
plait#, midely spaced, trimmed with three
horlzontal bands, with detached polqta,
terminating with black velvet buttons
and buttonholes at the center of each
plait. Tie cutaway coat, extending mid-
way to the knees, is single-breasted and
closes with threo large mohair covered
buttons. Its fronts, lapping side seams
- and sleeve'; uppers are trimmed to match
the skirt, the slightest suggestion of color
being introduced into the embroidery of
the collar and cuffs.
Brhida and Duttons.
soutachs, Hercules and fancy braids
newer demitoilettes
)
are more aimcdit for an amateur to essay , «
than the high girdles glittering with gold, , {
silver and jet spangles which are worn , I
be first aired Easter morning,
has a drapery arranged at one side into
narrow side plaits, forming a slender fan.
closely gathered at the waistline and
drawn slightly toward the left side, thus
forming a ripple across the front -di-
rectly below the belt. This is a very
modified variation of the Paquin blue
serge. The front drapery is slashed
just above the knees, and falls to' within
six inches of the skirt's hem, and 13
edged with the box plaited ruching, which
precisely matehes the color of,the volte,
Complieations of Blonses.
Blouses grow in grace and beauty, and
also get more and more complicated. To
the uneducated masculine eye they ap-
penr to be built upon their wearers, for
not only their fasteuings, but their teams
veil, >13 for the making, providing the
work is done in the house by an expert
seamstress: $75 in all covering the neces-
sary expenditure. for the wedding cos-
tume.
The going-away suit of fine .broadeloth
should be entrusted to n tailor ho, in
a small city, will make a severely plain
coat and skirt for $25, the costumer to
furnish all the materials, which will
amount to an additional >40, thus pro-
viding herself with a street and visiting
costume that will stand an indefinite
amount of wear and look well so long
as it bolds together.
For an extra street suit for mid-
season wear nothing is better than one
of the dark-colored rough silks, of which
10 yards at a dollar a yard will be quite
sufclent. allowing >4 more for Coot
linings and buttons and $10 for its mak-
ing.
of plumes, towering .above a sugar-loaf
crown that merges into a narrow satin-
bound brim that droops ever so slightly.
Black and White Net Guimpes.
- Of all the accessories recently seen none
are more practical than the separat ’ *
guimpes designed to be worn with what-
ever style of jumper is most convenient.
The plain net, whether black or white,
is pin tucked to form the deep yoke,
there is a pin-tucked high collar and the
puffed elbow sleeves are finished with
pin-tucked band cuffs. The uimpe ls
mounted upon a lawn underwalst and
is, therefore, readily adjusted. Similar
guimpes are made up in dotted swiss
with lace insertions between the rows
of pin tucks, and others, also launderable,
are of allover muslin embroidery.
Fluffy Neekwear Efecta.
sary stockings, allowing $8 for two dozen
pair, which will include • half dozen
each of white and tan. One pair of
white silk stockings will cost a dollar,
and there should be three additional pair
of fine black lisle for dress wear.
As most popular brides-elect are favored
with a ribbon and a handkerchief shower
within a few days of the Important
event, It is not absolutely necessary to
consider the expense of such minor de-
tails, but in purchasing a trousseau with
a limited sum it is often possible to save
a half or a quarter of a dollar In one
way or another, and these should be con-
scientiously set aside for whatever extras',
may have been overlooked.
cloth suit. of a matching shade. Its ac-
tual foundation is a white net uner-
waist, trimmed generously with satin rib-
bon-finished accordion-plalted net ruch-
Ings and edging bands of heavy white
lace, lined with China, blue satin. The
plaited drapings crossing the shoulders
are gathered foosely into the waistband
and outlined with broad soutache em-
broidered bands, which also define the
wide arm size and loop. backward the
Japanese sleeve caps.
Smoke Shades.
Because'of the popularity of neutral
tints London smoke is a favorite again
this season. It is seen not only in some
of the smartest of the tailored suits to
Anything more fetching, from the sar-
tortal vlewpoldt, thah the striped mohair
coat and skirt walking costumes reeently
designed it would be dimeult to find in
any Easter day parade. Bubdued tints
prevail in these suits, which are more
remarkable for the grace of their design
and the perfection of their tailoring than
for their coloring. This Idea is developed
most happily in two slightly contrasting
tones of brown or blue. One of the nat-
tiest of the spring mohairs is of light and
dark gray, the walking skirt barely es-
by contrasting trimmings, but with
blue, cerise or maize satin coat linings
suggested by the embroidery or puffed
centers of the handsome Suttons.
white or black Iace robe, which may be
wyrn over the silk slip.
At least one handsome negligee, which
may also be used as a tea gown, should
be provided. One of those printed India
sllks, silting everywhere at 80 vents a
yard, would b charming, and 10 yards
would be quite sutielent. Another $53.00
will purchase materials for one cotton
crepe and two muslin kimonos,'and as (be
are invisible, A China blue blouse of
this complicated character is of chiffon
from the waist to below the hips. This.
type of skirt II best known ns the Paquin
model, although many variations have
been worked out of it by other model-
makers. A most attractive navy blue
serge costume recently imported—made
by the great fashion king is slightly
tralned and very clinging, with only the
rippling folds about the hips to break
its severely straight lines. The short-
walsted, loosely fitting-almost shapelesa
—coat extends well over the hips, dips
slightly in front and has heavily stitched
edges. The fronts, trimmed with large
black soutache-covered buttons and long
simulated buttonholes, do not join, but
reveal a white corded silk waistcoat, em-
broidered in black and whlte soutache.
Rows of -soutache-covered buttons and
buttonholes trim the hips and back of
the coat nnd also the loose, sevenelghths;
length sleeves, which have narrow, turn-
back/black satin cuffs and are set plainly
info a Japanese arm-size.
Emerald Green Touches.
A green wave is sweeping over the sar-
tortal -world this season, emerald being
the shade most used. Not only are entire
evening costumes, separate waists and
elaborate hats develop.d In this beautiful
color, but it is used to emphasize line
effects or to bring out the color scheme
Any of the fshlonable light shades in
chifon cloth Wl make t ainty, long -$krt-
ed demt-tollette necessary forsmal dinners ------------ r.
and patties. It will call for elght yards on hand d smart raincoat, the amount of
of two dollar material, some nppliqued ! such a purehase can be put into a pretty
h l
a
s
Af ternoon ToiletteSmoke ,
. byGusovdeer'
Again will the huge rosette maline bow
be in evidence, for it is too well beloved
by the woman who realizes the value of
a softening fabric close to the face.
This spring it will be both plain and
ornamental, for the filmy loops .may be
edged all around with fine narrow lace
or they may be appliued- with fine
motifs. There is no rule regarding the
size of mline neck bows, that being left
wholly to the discretion of the individual
wearer, but naturally a large woman
may essay one almost twice the slre of
that worn by her ““pocket edition" sister.
Long Shawln.
Now is the time to hunt in the attic
trunks for the long shawls that grand-,
mother took so much pride in and wore
so gracefully, for she belonged to the
sloping shoulder period, which has again
come into vogue with the erase for the
Japanese sleeve. It would be as diffi-
cult to fancy a Japanese woman with
square shoulders as it would to Imagine
her elaborate coiffure surmounted by a
sailor bat. The long shawl may be of
cashmere with an Indian or a Paisley
border; it may have a hemstitched edging
or a long silken fringe, or it may be of
Canton crepe, but at present it is worn
long, not square. The chantilly lace
shawl, which is fsr more likely to have
survived the years of seclusion, is an-
other valuable heirloom, for it may be used
compositely for both shoulder wrap and
head covering if lightly Hued with soft
silk. It is quite possible to accomplish
this feat by running late string ribbon
just above the border of the inner side
of the shawl and attaching the silk lln-
ing to it, no that the delicate lace
threads may not be strained.
Scarfs of Various Materials.
Because a scarf may be evolved frop, g
such a variety of fabrics, almost ahyci
woman may gratify a taste for one of q
these important dress accessories. Any of ■
the fancy black and white nets are ex- "
cellent for scarf purposes. The net should
be full width, two yard strips, finished
with wide hems and with ends mafia
weighty as well as ornamental with lace
medallions or galloons. In the same man-
ner the printed nets and chiffons are
made up, and in the soft twilled delfcate;
ly colored sllks are scarfs with fringed
ends, which are pretty with simple
tailored suits. Strpes of Irish. Itallan
and Ventse lace make an excellent foun-
dation for marabout, ostrich and eoque
edgings. The four-inch wide lace strips
are first bordered firmly with baby width
white ribbon, to which is sewn the feath-
er trimming of any desired shade among
the more delicate colors. Or a heavy
dyed lace may be used with the darker
colors If a dressy street Ecarf l> needed.
Fnney Belta.
TWo-Inch-wide bands of oriental em-
broidery. lined with pale satin and with
neatly stitched edges. are used for fancy
belts, and, provided one have the neces-
sary buckle, may readily be mde of the
band which trimmed the winter hat, after
such trimming has been carefully pressed
upon the wrong side. Incidentally, it
may be remarked that. A. really hapdsome
belt buckle is worth purchasing, as it
may so readily be shifted from one belt to
another. Glace kid belts are fashionable
in all colors. They are lined with heavy
satin and tailor stitched and are provided
with what is known as the truck buckle
of gilt, silver or gun metal, this usually
two inches in diameter, A girl with a
very snall waist may quite easy trans-
form her shoulder-length party glove«
Into a belt, first cleaning the light tints
with gasoline or naphtha. Plain kid belts
are Intended for ordinary wear and are
accompany. Twenty-fl vo dollars is not
too mueh to expend upon such a practical
; garment, but should one happen to have
The Greek Note.
Scant skirts swathing the figure begin
far above the natural waist Hue and
have tunic draperings of various types,
finished with deep hems or with key bor-
derings that are repeated as trimmings
for the low, round necks, wide and short
sleeves and the docture over which the
bodtce blouses ever 80 slightly. On
imported costume of this character1 is
picturesquely developed in emerald green
chiffon satin. The tunic falls in ripple
folds at the knee And is weighted with
a gold tinsel ornament and a long tasgel.
The low bodice is outlined with a shaped
band of tinsel embroidery, and from the
top of the- shoulder green silk and gold tin-
sel tassels fal over the short, loose
bride-to-be can certainly make these her-
self, the four negligees should not cost
more than $ 10.
A fine chip hat trimmed with ribbon,
silk or feathers to harmonize with the go-
Ingaway suit, may be obtained (or $10.
This, with an all black lace hat to be
worn with the chiffon cloth or rough
silk, and a fower-crowned white straw
for midsummec nt about $10 apiece, will
bring the millinery bill to something
like $30. t
Twenty-five dollars' should be set aside
for a supply of shoes, which will Include
the white mtin wedding slippers, one
pair of white canvas shoes, two of tine
black kid and several of the common-
sense type. Gloves will cost a like
amount. as there should be at last five
pair of long ones at $3 the pair, six of
shopping length at $1.50 the pair and
two 80 cent silk Hale pair for wear dur-
ing exceedingly hot weather.
Three taffeta petticoats of various dark
colors may be provided at a cost of $5
each. If made by the brideelect. And
if she has set aside >45 for lingerie, she
would best purchase enough lonsdale for
12 complete sets and then expend the
remaining money for imitation Valen-
ciennes and musiin embroidery trimming*,
which are quite Inexpensive if purchased
by the 10-yard bolt. Such lingerie may
not be elaborate, but it is of a refined
type and much tooe likely to withstald
Iaundering than the “ready mhe."
Twelve dollars will provide the neces-
A
to-
of certain gowns which might otherwise
be more or lees characterless.
Satin Striped Voiles.
Emerald trimmings are used most suc-
cessfully In the case of elaborate after-
noon costumes of semitransparent fab-
rics, “among which, are the new' satin and
mohair striped voiles, which slightly re-
semble the once fashionable satin-striped
grenadines, but have decidedly more sub-
stance, uni are, therefore, more practical,
while qulto as effective. A rather deep
shade of tan-colored voile of the striped
variety is charmingly relieved with emer-
aid satin trimmings. The blouse is formed
of the plain, bias shoulder •traps, joining
in tho middle of the back, and in'front
supplemented by a double box-plalted
plastron, which begins at the top of the
bust and is loosely gathered into the
girdle of emerald satin. The deep, square,
white dotted net yoke and high collar
are trimmed with emerald satin ribbon
and outilned with bands of the same
shade, embroidered with white silk sou-
tache.
Box-plalted Satin Ruching.
Another novel feature of this gown la
the box-plaited satin ruching which edges
the blouse folds, the bias bands trimming
the .three-quarters modified Japanese
sleeves and. the trained skirt. These are
barely a half inch wide and on the, train
of the skirt edge three narrow tucks set
with evening gowns. These, of course,
are made over fitted and boned linings,
but may fasten with blind books and eyes
in lieu of gorgeous and costly bnekles.
Advertising's virtues hav^ never been
more eloquently sung than by the mau-
nger of a New York department store. •
Jie says that of six perfumes, whose dif-
fen ace in quality only an expert can tell,
one sells more than all the other five
combined. .This one is always being ad-
vertised; the other* are not. The best
quality. If there be any difference, be-
longs to that brand which Belka most
poorly becaose hast advertised.
FOR sl
nil, kind
St. Old
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a. anst
sitk or hraid trimmings at two dollars,
and $15 for the making. No linings will
be negasary; as tho gown may be worn
over the same white slip to be used with
the two white lingerie dresses which, at
n cost of about $18 each, will be found
to be amongst the most convenient gar-
ments It the trousseau. These should be
of batiste, handkerchief linen or dotted
Swiss, lace or needlework trimmed, and
be of gold or silver cloth or white or
black satin. Gloves are worn with many
of the Greek dinner gowns, but they are
absolutely out of keeping with them and
detract from the picturesque effect. If
women who find the Greek idea becoming
take it up in earnest, it is probable that
the beauty culturists will have more
work than they can .conveniently attend
to, for naturally the bared arm must be
kept plump and white and the nails be
perfectly shaped.
Picturesque Easter Millinery.
The new spring hats are really triumphs
of millinery handiwork. Many bloom with
exotics, and there Is no room for any
other trimming. One of these is the
Genevieve, a wide:brlmmed favorite,
charming-when developed in white chip,
with high*square crown buried beneath
pink roses, buds and foliage or other
blossoms, among which are loops of black
velvet i ribbon smtlar to that banding
the bat;
The "Aadle," on the contrary, is a mass
c
■i Auheegrne
Before beginning to expend the trous-
seau money it U well to lay out the en-
tire contents of the present wardrobo
and decide how much of it may be util-
ized. taking Into due consideratlon the
climate in which the new home is lo-
cated, the manner of living nnd how
much one is likely to go about.
The girl planning her trousseau will,
of course, include In It all of the furs
and scrspa of good lace that she may
poasess and remember she may use the
least elaborate of her evening frocks for
house dresses by adhg net hghiecked
yokes and elbow sleeves; that passe silk
dresses will often answer for hnfga in
new frocks, and linen separate skirts
will always be useful ns nccompanimenta
to the best of her present shirtwaist sup-
ply and do nicely for Morning house
frocks.
White safln is usually the ambition of
those girls who expect ultimately to be
brides and who not infrequently decide
upon the details of that imiportant cos
tume before they have selected the bavpy
man who is to accompany them to the
altar. White satin requires little to en-
bailee its beauty beyond a strip or two
of really good lace, which many brides-
elect possess in the form of an heirloom
or are able to borrow from n’relatiou
or dear friend. An excellent quality of
satin may be procured for >2 ths yand,
and 20 of them will make a long-trained
princesse gown. Ten dollars will pay for
the silk lining, a like amount for the
' tore of the trimming being the wide,
turnover collar, bread revere, turnback
eudA and applied hrm-gize hands, deco-
rated with mavv medlum-sized old rose
cloth covered’buttons, set into soutache-
embroidered buttonholee.
Bine Serge Popular.
Lightweight, corded serges are being
made up into long skirt and fancy coat
. tallormades the prevailing tint being of
the darkest shade of navy. justly re-
garded as a practical all-year color and
quite as appropriate for afternoon as for
iorbing wear. Moreover, navy is be-
coming to women of nearly every age
kN and complexion, and to that fact, more
% than any other. its continued popularity
" it probably flue. The Hgtter shades of
\ blue, like the porcelains and Copenhagen,
X are in high favor, but for genera} service
X they are not nearly 80 practal as the
E darker tone.
■X xippling skirt Fronts.
1 “pew skirt* 5ntrodueed of late years
| V* met with more faror than those with
sleeves bordered to match the bodice and
the cincture defining the waist in Greek
key design.
Guimpes,
Thrifty matrons, who endeavor to util-
ize one costume for various occasions
take kindly to the Greek dinner gowns,
any of which may be worn with a hat 1
at an afternoon reception, provided an
appropriate gutmpe is added. Cue of
these acceseorles, recently .brought from
Paris, owes much of its beauty to its
utter simplicity of design. It’is of white
malinette, shirred into ft narrow lace baud
of Greek key pattern, and covers the
shoulders a trifle above the collarbones,
while the scant sleeves, shirred "into a
band at the Inner side seam, veil the
elbows and a portion of the forearm.
Greek. Costume Accesnorien.
Filet bands for the hair match the
•liver, gold, black or white trimmings
of the Grecian gown with which they
are worn. Similarly the shoes should
are used ot the majority of the broad-
cloth and satin-face materials that are
made up into elaborate street costumes
and buttohs are almnost Idvarlably prevent
in one rise or anothet, ranging from alb
ver quarter proportions to those of French
x peas. They are of varying materials.
Many metal buttons are used on the
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Imboden, W. M. The Austin Statesman (Austin, Tex.), Vol. 39, No. 89, Ed. 1 Sunday, March 29, 1908, newspaper, March 29, 1908; Austin, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth1463858/m1/16/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu.; .