Denton Record-Chronicle (Denton, Tex.), Vol. 59, No. 45, Ed. 1 Sunday, October 1, 1961 Page: 26 of 48
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•nay, October 1,1961
THE DENTON RECORD-CHRONICLE
PAGE TWO—SECTION THREE
SEWING IS SIMPLE - 2
8
How To Make Adjustments
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By LUCILLE RIVERS
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pattern adjustments will correct
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1 prev-
if you
iously, much future fitting will be eliminated
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to
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rating the full back
Adjusimenis for fhe very full bust
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Adjusimenis for the flat-chested figure
Eiling the full-busted figure
NEW METHOD
Pattern Serves
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»
As Dress Liner
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to classic designs for sheath dress-
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once associated with sportswear
tissue patterns as she tried fitting design ideas which she expects to
see someday on the backs
of
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mart
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LATEST FALL
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NEW
McCalls
THE SKIRrS THE THING . .
WOOLENS
SIMPLICITY
BUTTERICK
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Priced at 11.50
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a national scale.
FINLEY'S
FASHION FABRICS
Denton Center
382-5017
YOUR NAME
ADDRESS
STATE.
Total Price
Steer
1
II
4
€
/6
The Finest
Patterns
Available
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es. capri pants, shorts and skirt.
But then Mrs. Krem, who was
McCall’s
5721
cheaper than she can be buying
the material separately, she ar-
McCall’s
5750
crease comfort and ease afoot.
This year colored linings offer a
fashion bonus in a smart shoe.
Subtle hues on the inside com-
pliment fall outer colors. Gossa-
mer-thin, lace-like embossed pat-
terns dress up graceful daytime,
lavish evening shoes. Among the
new colors added to the leather
McCall**
5B41
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sewing
begins with
Milliken
Leather-Lined
Shoes Offer
Inside Track
Women have the Inside track
to fashion and comfort this fall — |
in new leahter - lined shoes.
Daytime, evening and casual
shoes are lined in a variety of co-
lorful, soft and light-weight leath-
ers. Attractive to the eye, smooth
to the touch, the new sheep and
kid leather linings help a shoe
Fitting the small-busted figure
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FASHION FABRICS SHOP
on the Mezzonine
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§ STYLES, PATTERNS
AND COLORS
adds sparkle to an evening pump
or at-home mule.
Leather linings add value to a
leather shoe — without increas-
ing the price. Durbale and long-
Uninhibited, exciting . . . prophetic of the future ... if it’s
flared!
Vogue Printed Pattern 4299 is as new as tomorrow, with its gent-
ly flared skirt meeting an elongated bodice at hip level. Sewn
in soft silk crepe, surah or faille ... or one of the new printed
wools or blends, it's the perfect answer to what-to-wear for in-
formal luncheons and bridge parties.
The side-draped bodice which defines the figure ever so slight-
ly, is flattering and feminine. (Actually there are dart pleats re-
leased below the left shoulder!)
For an even hemline, take a tip from a dressmaker . . . allow
your dress to hang overnight before hemming! This will relax
your skirt, help your hemline remain even.
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FEW PATTERNS
Mrs. Krem went Into business
cautiously, offering just a few pat-
terns to a Florida department
store on consignment. But the
By Far The
Largest Selection
of Sewing Needs
Anywhere
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!
Never before have we had such
an extensive, truly outstending
selection of fine Milken febres.
Come see the glorious autumn
colors, the wonderful textures,
end see how much you can save
when ybu sew your own!
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■ dies and nylons from puckering
• or tearing out along the seams
.... : Mrs. Krem’s cloth patterns cost
■ almost twice as mush as the
; most expensive paper patterns.
! However the seamstress gets a
good quality, pre-shrunken lining
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Pa Hem adjustments For the matronly
figure
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avalanche of orders that resulted
encouraged her husband Louis, a
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• Bow Many?
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The following
many common figure faults. As we have said
them, and weary of cutting out
separate dress linings, this one-
time fashion designer decided to
make her patterns out of cloth.
SILK SCREEN
In her home in Miami Mrs.
Krem silk screened the pattern
pieces of two yards of batiste 45
inches wide, with each piece pro-
perly placed to conserve material.
She also screen printed instruc-
tions on each piece in three lan-
guages —English, French and
Spanish.
Now when her cloth pattern is
pinned to the same sized dress
fabric, both can be cut and sewn
at the same time. And the pat-
tern automatically becomes the
lining of the dress.
Or when an amateur is in doubt
about the pattern fit, she can cut
out the cloth pieces of Mrs.
Krem's patterns, pin or baste
them together, slip into the rough
dress and make adjustments.
Then she can rip it apart, eut it
accordingly, and sew up the dress
fabric itself without costly mis-
1 takes.
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dividends, too. Because of leath-
er's ability to “breathe" natural-
ly. perspiration evaporates easily
and the foot remains dry and heal-
thy. Smooth leather linings pre-
vent chafing, blisters and calluses.
“Pump bumps” are eliminated by
। the snug fit to feather - lined
shoes.
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first make a basic pattern in muslin and correctly fit
it to your figure. Then simply make the same basic
adjustments on other patterns you use.
VERY FL'LL BUST
Usually, you buy your basic pattern according to
bust measurement, but when bust fullness is ex-
treme, a pattern bought by this measurement would
be much too large at the neck and armhole. Buy
the size that gives the best fit at the armholes, re-
gardless of bust measurement. This smaller pattern
will probably fit well except across the bust where
it will be too tight for your figure (Illustration 1).
Make the bust size larger by slashing the pat-
tern from waistline to armhole, and from the center
of the bust dart toward the point (Illustration 2).
By spreading the pattern here you get more fullness
for the larger bust. The dart becomes larger and
deeper, which gives more cupping.
If the waistline also needs to be lengthened, as is
often the case, continue cutting from the point of
dart straight across the front of the pattern and
lengthen as needed Shape the dart to fit correctly
(Illustration 3). If the waist needs enlarging, spread
the pattern at the waistline slash.
For the extremely full-busted figure, slash the
pattern to the shoulder and spread. Usually, with
this adjustment, the shoulders have to be narrowed
with a tuck from the center shoulder toward the
bust (Illustration 4).
FULL BACK
Often, what should be your correct pattern size
seems too small because the back is tight, although
the rest of the pattern fits preperly (Illustration 5).
You need only to broaden the shoulders for a com-
fortable fit.
To make an adjustment, slash across under the
armhole and up through the shoulder, moving this
piece out on the shoulder to give the necessary full-
ness across the back (Illustration 6). The back
shoulder must be made broader because the figure
is round-shouldered. Extra fullness is needed across
the shoulder blades but not at the too of the shoul-
der. To make back and front shoulders fit, it is
usually necessary to make a dart at the back shoul-
der. This takes up the extra fabric so front and
back shoulder seams are even (Illustration 7) and
gives a better fit to the rounded back.
If the entire back is too broad, the pattern can be
slashed from waistline to shoulder and spread.
COMBINATION OF BOTH TYPES
The overweight or matronly figure may have a
combination of these figure problems. The bust
may be too low and full, although the shoulders are
narrow. The back may be fleshy and rounded
through the shoulders (Illustration 8). Choose a
pattern that provides a high, correctly fitting, arm-
hole and alter for the broad back (Illustration 9)
and low full bust (illustration 10). For the low
bust, lower the side darts. Mark these darts before
you slash your pattern to alter for the full bust.
FULL-BUSTED FIGURE
If the waistline is the right length at the back and
sides but short in front directly under the bust, the
figure needs more cupping for the bust than the
pattern (Illustration 11.).
Cut along the alteration line and lengthen the
front waist the necessary amount. Pin a piece of
fabric there. At the bust dart take in the amount
added to the front length, making the dart deeper
(Illustration 12). This will give more cupping for
the full bust, and since nothin® has been done to the
back and sides, the seams will be even. The side
seam dart should run directly toward the point of
the bust, and should be no less than an inch from
the bust (Illustration 13).
Make the entire dart higher or lower, if needed.
Always be sure that the bust darts run upward to
give a younger and more youthful lift to the bustline
for the full-busted figure.
FLAT-CHESTED FIGURE
Usuallv with this figure fault, the back length is
correct, but the front waistline is too long and
droops at the center front (Illustration 14). Elim-
inate the extra length by taking a dart from under
the neckline, tapering to nothing toward the arm-
hole (Illustration 15). Make the same adjustment
in the pattern (Illustration 16).
SMALL-BUSTED FIGURE
For this figure the amount of fullness over the
bustline is more than is needed (Illustration 17).
If the shoulders are narrow as well, take a tuck
from the top of the shoulder straight down toward
the waistline, eliminating the extra fullness (illus-
tration 18). If the shoulders are normal, and only
the bustline has to be made smaller, a dart can be
fitted from the waistline up to the notch at the front
armhole of your basic muslin. Transfer these same
alterations to your pettern (Illustration 19).
+r Choose Millikens 100% wool
dress crepe for McCall's jacket
dress pattern No. 5767, 54”
wide, $3.98 yd.
+ Choose Millikens washable
(rayon-acetate) wool look Abbey
Flannel for McCall's tailored
dress pattern No. 5721, 45" wide
$1.98 yd.
+ Choose Milliken's 100%
wool shadow plaid for this
smart casual suit. McCall No,
5750, 54" wide, $3.98 yd.
4 Choose Millikans brushed ,
wool and mohair coating in
emerald, bright red or royal
blue for McCall No. 5641 60"
wide, $5.98 yd.
A,
NEW Vogue Printed Pattern 4249—Misses sizes 12 to 20 former fight manager. to join the
company. Now the Krems have
VV “0wv--M--M V awe OMvAlew-AI • -
annoyed at the rips and tears in designer Tina Leser, has plenty of wearing. leather linings help a
ticene nafterne ae che tried fittine Id-i- id--- -ki-k -h- ------ shoe keep its shape longer?
_____. ___Smooth and wrinkle-free, they pre- ■
smartly dressed American worn- vent snags and save sheer hose,
en—particularly the teen-agers I Leather shoe linings pay health
.J/3
NEXT SUNDAY: More about Pattern Adjust-
ments. (From the book, The Better Homes and
Gardens Sewing Book, by Lucille Rivers. Copy-
right 1961).
T
McCalrs
5717
• Impatient seamstresses particu-
; larly like her patterns, she finds,
I because the batiste firmly con-
l trols slithery materials like jer-
Enclone *1.50 for delivery by fourth class mail. (Add 10 cents nexaundsewing he"pttemswih
for delivery by first class mail.) sheer fabrics keeps even organ-
Complete selection of Fall Pafterns by
VOGUE MeCALL, SIMPLICITY and BUTTERICKI
A
1
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By JEAN BPRAIN WILSON
AP Fashion Writer ....
gues. And the amateur probably
if Hughette Krem's dreams i saves money by the mistakes she pinks. pale greens, soft grays and
come true, most of America's, doesn t make. matte blacks. Gold-toned leather
home sewers will some day be! .At present her stock is limited
wearing dress patterns on their
backs.
Tired of transferring markings,
i>
stay young even as they in-
hired more help and have gone
To obtain Pattern No. 4299 fill in this coupon and mail to : into the cloth pattern business on
VOGUE PATTERNS
Dept. D.R.C.
302 Cole St
Dallas, 7. Texas
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Denton Record-Chronicle (Denton, Tex.), Vol. 59, No. 45, Ed. 1 Sunday, October 1, 1961, newspaper, October 1, 1961; Denton, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth1491767/m1/26/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu.; crediting Denton Public Library.