San Antonio Daily Light (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 26, No. 57, Ed. 1 Sunday, March 17, 1907 Page: 14 of 24
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14
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Charming Devices of the
Tailor - Skirts Main-
tain a Sensible Length-
Trimmings are Compli-
cated and Elaborate -
Footwear an Important
Factor-Hats That Ap-
proach the Picturesque.
With the spring weather when
fur coats and fur-lined wraps are put
nsldc. the three-piece tailor-made costume
springs into prominence once more. This
senkon It would seem as though the tailors
had t»ccn trying to Improve upon their
winter reputation for elaboration for all
of the now models are trimmed after the
most complicated fashions.
The materials in themselves are such
that their clpver manipulation leads to
trimming effects that demand the highest
class of skill in handling. Stripes checks
and plaids—those latter chiefly of the
nondescript and broken varieties — are
r-stly in favor and there is no limit
save that set by the ingenuity of the de-
signs to the trimming effects that can be
wrought in the use of the material alone
ithout any extraneous help from braids
velvets and other trimming novelties.
In the coat and skirt suit which flour-
ishes mightily in spite of the vogue of the
separate wrap on the other side of the
ocean some charming devices are set forth
tn which this appearance of an elaborate
trimming is effected in the use of the ma-
terial in bias bands and folds in con-
trasted perpendicular and horizontal lines
in stripes that meet In a V line and other
deft manipulations that are common to
the clever tailor's art.
In eoat shapes everything from the most
abbreviated Eton jacket—and some of
them end their brief career somewhere In
the vicinage of the shoulder blades—down
to the long-fitted garment that follows
Cbesterfieldian lines and extends well nigh
to the hem of the skirt each and every
one seems to be Just as fashionable and to
receive as full a share of modish atten-
tion as the others.
But among the younger sets there Is
evident a very pronounced fancy for a
little ©oat shape that cleverly combines
the fitted jacket and the loose pony coat
to perfection. This sets closely to the
lines of the figure at the back and sides;
the fronts are adjusted with a single dart
while the center fastening follows a loose
straight line that cannot fail to prove be
coming to the slender ereetnpH* of a
youthful figure. Below the waist line
those little coats are cut with a fullness
in toe seams that gives a slightly ripple
effect this emphasising the hip line and
by force of contrast making the waist all
the more slender.
Time and again has the deathknell of
the little Eton been sounded fully an oft
as that of the separate blouse; but those
self-appointed executioners notwithstand-
ing both of those dainty items of the
wardrobe continue to flourish mightily.
Borne of the new Etons are a long call
and a far cry away from the original
Eton; but no matter under what name or
title they make their bow they are fully
as fashionable as they have ever been and
that's saying a good deal.
Some very smart loose sacques are dis-
played those coming but an Inch or so
below the waistline and making not the
slightest attempt to define the figure at
any point except across the shoulders.
And by the way the coat that has the
sleeve attached tn the outer material as
well as to the lining is distinctly in the
minority this year the great majority of
models having the sleeve attached only
to th? lining and the outer part of the
garment built out to cover the sleeve
and shoulder seam altogether. A good
stiff canvas Interlining Is necessary to
the correct carrying out of this idea and
the best tailors reinforce It by a second
layer in which the thread of the goods
runs counter to that of the top layer
and row after row of machine stitching
Is employed to hold the two tn place.
Anticipating the warm weather many
of the new models are cut extremely
low and round at the neck many of
them covering but hnlf of the shoulder
line. Much trimming Is disposed at this
point and then carried down the front
of the coat mostly in semblance of vest
effects. In a goodly number there Is the
design of sn under coat carried out
usually tn goods of contrasting color this
also appearing in the cuff which then
takes the form of an undersleeve.
Aa for skirts they are many and varl
one and yet all alike in the one point—
7771777777
that they clear the ground well all
around. The Pnrlsienne has never taken
kindly to tbe skirt of shortened length
albeit It displays to advantage the dainty
bottiues that are dear to the heart of
tbe French woman. Au appreciable num-
ber of colored shoes are to be seen on
the promenade any fine morning or aft-
ernoon -mostly grays and tans and the
overgaiter of tbe dress material Is quite
an accepted fashion by this time extreme
aa it appeared when tljat advocated.
The loose wrap that can be donned
instantly over the house dress thus muk
Ing one's street toilet in a few moments
finds many adherents among tbe fash
louablea. Long and loose are th? lines of
the beat of them while fashion is dl
vided between the pluln co** —eev? and
that of dolman This latter
however. It must be confessed gives
rather an elderly and even dowdy line
to tbs figure of any but a very tall
woman and bene? Its use among the
petite sisterhood will therefore be a
limited one. But those who follow every
freak of fashion because of novelty will
doubtless accept It Instantly.
— —■ ——»» w ————
HARD ON HIM.
Mrs. Writ up—l’m going to lecture on
"Woman's Rights.”
Mr. Wrltup—What are you going to do
with me?
Mrs. Wrltup—l'm going to take you
with me us “The Horrible Example.”
FAN ANTONIO SUNDAY LIGHT SAN ANTONIO TEXAS SUNDAY MARCH 17 1007
CEE/i THE
” PROMENADE
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r
Vast Variety in Toilettes- Lent Lessens the Jewel Display - The Decollette
Mode Rules - Some Sleeveless Bod ices Observed - Coiffures
- and Their Ornaments.
The foyer of either opera house—the
new Manhattan and the older Metro-
politan-ore delightful places for tbe stu-
dent of fashions and affairs to take notes
and make observations upon the gown-
ing the fads and fancies of the fashion-
ables who belong either by right of aris-
tocracy or plutocracy to tbe golden horse-
shoe of boxes witbin.
On arrival one cannot help but note
that tbe cape has almost entirely run
tbe former opera cloak and the evening
coat entirely out of fashionable precincts.
Those new capes are things of beauty In
their every line and fold. They extend
many of them to the hem of the long
train of tbe opera gown; rise abruptly
on the sides to fall to tbe feet again
In front It Is but rarely that there is
any vent for the hands at eltber-
side of the fronts; the cape is supposed
to envelope one entirely.
Chiffon velvets broadcloths of exquls-
770C77777 7777 G7/77T77677 COTT7
Seen at the Grand Opera.
X.Z * XiaUIVMVW.
Ite sheen the new satin cloths that are
silk on thrir outer surface and cloth on
the reverse side and brocades of varying
hues nod patterns seem to be the more
popular fabrics that are employed. Much
fur too goes to their trimming chiefly
white fox swonsdown ermine and chin-
chilla; those pelts according better with
the dnlnty and delicate hues which all
Society seems to have settled upon as tbe
correct thing for evening use.
And the linings of those same enpes!
They are certainly things of beauty In
themselves. Rich brocades arc veiled
with printed and tbe so called hand-
painted chiffons; and those In turn ere
trimmed with festooned and garlanded
effects in ruffled lace A perfect froth of
lace and chiffon Is cascaded down the
fronts on tbe Inoct sides; and tbe big
upturned collar—usually of tbe medicl
cut —Is trimmed after tbe same style.
So rarely does ono see a high-necked
777777 7707)7777%
gown In the boxes that Its presence Is
at once marked. I'erhups once In a great
while some very elderly lady will appear
In a transparent yoke of some real lace;
but even this concession to bare bonoa
and acrawny shoulders la but seldom
made. With the beauty 'experts offering
services on every baud and roost of them
successful tbe woman who cannot well
wear n decollette gown la today the rare
exception to the general rule.
The sleeveiesa bodice Is asserting itself
strongly where evening gowns nre con-
cerned. One charming black velvet cos-
tume ent en prluceaae has a heart-
shaped decolletage. and just three straps
hanging over tbe upper arm for a sleeve
effect. Others rely upon what Is merely
a sleeve cap and leavo the rest of the
arm covering entirely to the Imagina-
tion. Sleeves too of contrasting ma-
terial are seen; those of tulllne and span-
gled net appearing in all sorts of con-
nectlons from lace to velvet. Usually
those are mere shoulder puffs; but onco
In a while one notes an umbrella sleeve
made of many overlapping ruffles and
ending In short career somewhere be-
tween tbe forearm and elbow point
That tbe trains of all skirts are long
goes without saying; but there are few.
If any of the old-time long trains to be
seen. Short and round are most of tbe
new ones lying a scant quarter of a yard
on the floo- in the back and about half
that depth at tbe sides.
"Petticoat fronts” are to be seen on
many of the princesse gowns especially
those affected by the elderly section. Al-
most invariably those petticoat fronts are
made with groups or series of lace flounces
posed somewhere between the knee and
tbe hem and lengthwise flounces serve
to define tbe rest of tbe robe thnt seems
to be drawn back the better to display
tbe petticoat front. Usually this feature
is carried out in white chiffon or satin
the rest of the gown In some tinted mate-
rial tbe better to mark the mode. Occa-
sionally this tablier effect will be carried
out continuously from tbe decolletage to
tbe bem of tbe gown In an unbroken Une;
but this makes for a stiffness of appear-
ance that Is not altogether in harmony
with tbe more facile and graceful Unes
tbat rute the current fashions.
Fans nre a trifle larger than heretofore
and Jeweled chains are used to fasten
them to the gown. The younger set are
wearing quaint little neck and wrist-
bandr of velvet ribbon upon which Jew-
eled slides are mounted nnd more than
one youthful beauty Is displaying a tiny
patch of black upon her fair cheek that
brings back tbe days when those little
ribbou bands were last worn.
The coming of Lent has dimmed the
Jewel display quite considerably. Few
women there are at any time who wear
tiaras to tbe opera; but one evening last
week there was not a single one visible
in either boxes or orchestra stnlls. Huge
aigrettes and nodding oatrich plumes are
quite tbe fad of tbe moment for coiffure
ornaments the feathers often sprlt-glng
from a tightly crushed bunch of roses or
violets fastened to tbe side of a high
coiffure.
Fads and Fancies of the
Passing Moment.
Jndginw by the display at high-class
Importers’ the hosiery of tbe summertime
Is to be a perfect riot both of color and
design. Variegated coin spots decorate
some sheer silken bose; big bunches of
cherries fully of tbe natural slxe and
colors are worked upon pale blue stock-
ings; wisteria sweet peas crab apples
and big cabbage roses are some of tbe
designs that are embroidered In all of
their natural colorings upon highly tinted
backgrounds. The plain stocking seems
relegated altogether to the background:
and what with short skirts and scream-
ing hosier)' the summer girl of tbl* year
of grace will assuredly be rather a loud
flgure upon the landscape.
Colored Linens are replacing tbe
white fabric that has bold Its own place
undisturbed In our affections for so long.
White trimmings are the rule upon those
tinted weaves; and tbe three-piece suit—-
coat blouse and skirt—are deftly carried
out In delicate shades of blue rose
green lilac brown and yellow.
One-color Costumes are being
adopted by many of the fashion leaders
abroad. Frocks old-fashioned quaint
looking wraps fashioned of the dress ma-
terial and a chapeau to match are being
freely ordered In Faria; nnd when tbe
tint Is one tbat can be matched In
leather ooze calf or suede the footwear
and gloves are supposed to follow the
tint of the costume as well.
73L 07777777
Description of II-
lustrations.
Smart Possibilities In Checks.
Those little checka that have been with
us for quite sometime now seem to have
taken on a new lease of fashionable
favor In the chiffon weight mohairs that
display themselves In such fashionable
colors and color combinations. A medium
shade of brown is checked with white In
the picture and brown satin pipings'
edging the flat bias bands In smart style.
The coat Is a popular combination of the
closely fitted military type and tbe looser
pony jacket. The bias bands are so ap-
plied tbat they broaden the shoulder con-
siderably give long Unes down the front
and back and appear also on the coat
sleeve. The skirt Is built In two sections
a gored upper part topping a circular
flounce the bias bands being cleverly ap-
plied to conceal the joining and make *or
a panel effect nt tbe same time. The
tablier front too Is defined by those
same bands; and the hem just barely
touches the floor all around.
Coate Top Spring Gowna
Although the three-piece tailor-made—*
tbe coat skirt and blouse costume —Is
well In the forefront of things fashion-
able the dressmaker-made gown that
makes Its street appearances with a
wrap topping It Is tbe choice of many
modish folks for tbe spring season. There-
are many points of convenience to com-
mend this style cblefeet of which Is the
readiness with which one’s street toilette
Is so made. The charming wrap that la
pictured la one that will be readily copied
by the home dressmaker. There is a bias
fold or aeam down the center back which
affords sufficient fulness to hang well
from the shoulders. The aide aeama are
widely gored while the sleeve Is of tho
plain coat variety with a plain cuff for
a finish. The original Is in a very pale
shade of moonlight blue broadcloth with
stitched folds of a dark chocolate brown
cloth around the collarless neck and down'
the fronts for trimming little ball buttons
of knotted silver braid and tiny loops of
tbe same lightening the effect of the dark
cloth trimming.
Modish Eton Salt in Shelma Cloth.
Like the separate blouse tbe death knell
of the little eton jacket has been sounded
so often thnt we have ceased to take any
notice whatsoever of such pronounce-
ments on the part of self-appointed fash-
ion censors. Because of Its universal
comingnees and the comfort that Its ab-
breviated shape affords once tbe warm
weather hna started there is no let up
or waning to Its smart acceptance. Cut
somewhat after a chasuble effect Is tbe
modiah model pictured the sleeve being
attached to the coat lining and the
der line built well out so that tbe broad
effect Is noticeable at this point. Theru
Is a little underjacket effect that dis-
plays itself at tbe round neck and down
the centpr front this braided In black and
gold while the coat fronts are turned ’
back in tiny revers just above the w aist-
line and braided to match the coat. This
same chic little effect is noticeable too
on the cuff while tbe pleated akirt la
cut to walking length. w
An Accepted Type of
Custame.
Broken and Irregular plaids especially
those patterns that shade on nnd through
the stone gray tints are exceedingly fazh-
louuble for wear among the youuger net;
and seem to len 1 themselves especially
well to the mathematical correctness of
the Easter tailor’s work. Jaunty littio
coats that define the figure closely at
sides and back leaving the frtpis to
follow a rather loose straight flue are
mostly favored this spring; there being
n chic Mtt’e ripple In tbe fullness of the
cut below the waistline tbat Is particu-
larly fetch lug. The three-quarters length
In sleeves Is what usually accompanies
thia style tbe arm covering full at the
top and tapering In glgot fashion below
tbe elbow. Skirts In which a multitude
of pleats are bandied to produce a pan-
eled effect are flvored the pl a stitched
fint until tbe curve of the hip is passed
and then pressed to swing jauntily to
tbe bem tbat Inevitably clears tbe
ground all around.
Ribbon flashes are being tacked upon
all of the summer frocks even for wom-
en of portly figures and matronly aepect.
Assuredly they do add n dressy touch to
a simple gown; but what with the rage
for elaboration that Is rampant nowadays
even tbe simplest little lingerie frock’
fa costly enough—when one comes to pay
the bill—without this extra item being
tacked on.
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San Antonio Daily Light (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 26, No. 57, Ed. 1 Sunday, March 17, 1907, newspaper, March 17, 1907; San Antonio, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth1691353/m1/14/: accessed July 16, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu.; .