Fort Worth Daily Gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.), Vol. 13, No. 311, Ed. 1, Sunday, August 18, 1889 Page: 9 of 12
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LADIES COLUMN
Autocratic Utterances of Autum-
nal Fancies from Fashions
Centers
Hat for Fall Wear Material for Bon
netsA Modern SunBonnet Sim-
ple Styles Adapted to Amateur
Modistes Suggestions of
hanare in Stout Wom
ens Attiring
Talks to a Youns Housekeeper Over the Pre-
serving Kettle The Hest Mothods to bo
Lscd and Fruit to be Selected
Gleanings from Fashions
Note Book Recipes
fir t intimation of waning fashions
J i < oii s close is wafted across the
i > r the benefit of the milliner
r ionizes the fact that when the
c r uu nordes and pirates come from
fc avl and from sea old hats will be
1 It the windsand the cry Give us
1 rthmg new must be appeased It-
s hort a time since fashions ora
t rs j M nursed of field llowers and deli
Ci > a s that it is hard to believe it is
f Sirv to be informed as to felt and
t < and yet the fiat has cone
> ai i the shapes for autumn are now
j
i > crust it is pleasant to read
Ut felt is of light weight
JLi tno beaver is softand satin like
f Tiie favorite hat is of plain
J a iiigh some have brims of felt
a J < r wus of furry beaver or the re
s These plain hats are elaborated
r lory of silk soutache and vel
3f ae and some have the brims
r J th network or crochet
c aj the long oval prevails Of
J s t ro are caprices such as shallow
5 shapes cut off at the back and pro
L vor the face others have the
2t > slashed to be turned up in differ
was as the fancy may direct
r > us are low square on the edge as a
r 1 cnerally of equal height
T < i but some are higher in front
rL ation is that the day of wide
asis out with the summer solstice
1 tt T those of medium size will be
tst
furular
Round turbans are the
r rrih square corners and high
r1 ip brims Bonnets promise to
a salification of the toque and capote >
Ctb siape is of little importance
5 tte frame is covered by th3 various
Wnire
san milliners bvow a decided
irrence for velvetas bonnet material
t > tyr 1 and ck UgBd ueifo
greeu aT
o has reappeardd the sfiade of differ
t s tailed anemone > Lbut this is a
jT ff vse by another name An es
ttay define the tint as more deli
tut to the majority it is the old ac
atance
i tic ifasn one l ° ve r pttce said that
jAst maiden never ooked so sweet
j
hfn her pinky loveljuljss was half
C T en n the shado of Vi te sunbbu
jr That was ghnbonrie of primi
yla TheSplits were out of white
Ja >
eloard the narrower the prettier
Jtl
Ladies Silk Mitts
At 25c 35c 50c and 75c
BedVed from 35c 50e 75c
and SI
1000 pairs ladies and chil-
dren s lisle thread hose at 50c
on the 1
100 dozen ladies linen col-
lar thrown into one lot and
soM at 10c each worth 20c
and 270
so
It was made with a projecting front and
a long white curtain reaching to the
waist the whole finished with a narrow
frill rolled and whipped with infinite
care each tiny gather picked up with
the needle in a way that is a lost art in
the days of sewing machines That was
a sunbonnet in fact Simplicity is the
present craze and the sunbonnet is
restored to favor but the fair maid of
fashion who reads of Marie Antoinette
and Little Trianon improves as she thinks
upon so ancient a model and this is the
modernized imitation as exhibited quite
triumphantly a few days ago
It was made of largo plaid lawn In each
blook was an embroidered spot The
lawn was cut on the bias the front so
that the plaid formed points that were
cut out and buttonhole stitched around
the top and bottom of the capo finished in
the same way The sides of the bonnet
were shirred in five shirrs over a large
cord the front set on the sides plain the
top in box plaits so that it sets up a lit-
tle and forming an inside trimming is a
full plaiting of lace The crown is set in
with large box plaitswhich gives it a high
effect and the top is finished by a bow of
white ribbon and white ribbon ties This
did not seem much of a sunbonnet but
it was pretty and quite becoming and
what more does a Nineteenth century girl
crave
Well yes she would like to know what
kind of hat is worn just now in Paris
and who can refuse so simple a
wish when the Millinery Trade
Review gives a hint of jealously
guarded secrets It says Among the
most striking styles was a large black
lace hat the lace frilled at the edge and
trimmed with small bows of pale pink
velvet and two or three black ostrich
feathers One in pale green straw had
a bow tied carelessly in front and a band
and small bow of licht sprinec green vel-
vet A black crinoline hat bordered
with an inch wide band of straw resting
on a jet coronet lined with pink velvet
outside there is a plume of pink feathers
Pipings of green velvet are laid
around the edge of a small
closefitting bonnet entirely made of
narrow cold braid Two or three white
ostrich tips were arranged as a coronet
Another bonnet had a soft crown of can-
vas embroidered with gold and edging of
black corn flowers while in the front
were upwright bows of very dark green
velvet Black hats plumed with black
were worn with red and white costumes
A flat yellow straw hat with the crown
shelving down to the front had a semi-
circle of black ostrich feathers laid on
the edge of the brim and one ofthe
same material was lined with black vel-
vet and ornamented with two groups of
yellow paradise feathers and a small
plume of black ostrich The only
trimming outside of a yellow hat
of medium size was a plume of
black ostrich attached to the front of
the crown and black velvet strings
to pass under the chin and fastened un
dor the left ear A brown velvet bonnet
had a double bow of white ribbon set in
front A yellow crape capote has a black
velvet bow set between two yellow wings
Tt will thus be seen that there are strong
Treasons for believing that black velvet
ribbon and black feathers will be much
worn the coming winter
Although September days are near
the Southern girl in southland knows
that for her there are yet muslin days
when she can wear a pretty inexpensive
costume that it may be her own
pretty fingers have devised A
sparkling brunette wore a few even-
ings sincett such a gown which
she whisberiugly asserted did not cost
over five dollars It was of cream mus
3K
I am giving 33 13 per cent
discount on all goods sold by
myshoe department
Nothing > Reserved
5JS45
come at once
descvipam nm > f jn price
from 4f50 to b tho mto
one Jbt and sold at 3ttea
Gents Summer Underwear
In lisle balbriggan and nain
sook at 33 13 per cent off
lin made m empire style with lull
crossed waist shortened by wide empire
sash and full sleeves with quaint ruffle
of lace at the elbow She was ne of
the few pretty girls to whom it is becom-
ing to wear tho hair in the goddess
style and tho generally quaint effect of
her makeup was enhanced by the
string of old coral beads round her
throat
Sateens are now sold exceeding cheap
and make a pretty fall dress for this lati-
tude As a rule they are so simply made
that a young lady of ordinary skill has
little trouble in fashioning a gown
that is extremely pretty and becoming
Straight skirts gathered waists and
full sleeves are easily managed and
anything like fussy or elaborate
drapery would destroy the effect
Wool skirts or those of wash fabrics
are made quite plain or with a flat bor-
der trimming The waist may be made
as fancy as one desires and where it is
becoming it is usually full on the shoul-
ders and shirred at the waist line or
lapped diagonally with a direetoire ruffle
edging it In the mounting of a skirt of
straight breadths to the belt there is op-
portunity for variety Some are simply
gathered all around some aro gauged
some are shirred to a greater or less
depth either all around or down over
the hips or across the front only
Lengthwise tucks down the front are
pretty graduated in a deep point and
shorter points may be arranged over tho
hips the back of the skirt fulled
into tho belt and hanging straight
These points may bo plaited half yard
deep in front or quite short forming a
pointed cuirass whichever is the most
becoming to the wearer For a person
with large hips a becoming stylo is to run
the top to the depth of about six inches
in lengthwise tucks abbut an inch wide
and the same distance apart thus reduc-
ing it to a width that will fit easily over
the hips For the latter arrangement
the foundation skirt should have a small
pad in the back and a short steel about
twelve inches below it as a person with
large hips is apt to be very flat in tho
back and the tucks accentuate tho
effect
As to the matter of trimming there is
nothing more suitable than feather
stitching which is now a necessary ac-
complishment of young women is easy
to do and very effective A very pretty
dress was recently made by a young lady
who was very prideful when she said
I did it all myself It was of gray
eashmere tho skirt tucked and trimmed
with rows of vining done in silk of a
darker shade tho tuoked blouse and
sleeves were vmed too aud the long
broad sash finished to tho depth of a
quarter of a yard each end in the same
way It was lovely and the girls went
wild over it White cashmere would be
pretty made in the same way the vining
done m orange and blue silk or in any
two contrasting colors that are beoom
ingTho
Tho simplest and one of the prettiest
full waists has one seam down the mid-
dle of the back and one under each arm
the shoulders without a seam which
causes the fronts to be on the bias Lace
may be jabotted around the neck aud
down the front and with a pretty full
sleeve with deep cuff the effect is gener-
ally becoming
For some reason not altogether clear
American women are growing dowager
like It is now rare to meet a woman
over forty whose life has been a sail on
summer seas who does not mourn over
an increased avoirdupois that may re-
mind of Raphaels Madonnas but has
no hint of Venus as Greek artists de-
fined her perfect proportions Owing
> v > >
THE GAZETTE FdBT WORTH TEXAS SUNDAT AUGUST 17
em 11 previous slau
Pairs GentsFnne pants of all
to this modistes find it weari-
some work to design costumes that
are becoming to a woman of
fortythree bust and more difficult to
convince the heavy subject that a change
of style would be more becoming A
stout woman starts at the thought of a
full sleeve fully convinced that lumps of
fat should be held in by the tight coat
which only serves to render the size more
apparent Women who are close ob-
servers must have noticed that as a stout
woman approaches fifty theflesh falls
away from the shoulder and the arms
seem to be set in somewhat as was those
of the doll dear to my childhood
Now there is nothing relieves this as
much as a sleeve made close fitting from
the elbow down The upper part set on
the close foundation full enough to allow
of three large plaits across these plaits
tacked upward on the shoulder forming
a graceful fullness where the flat effect
appears
My lady dowager do not forget there
aro full sleeves and full sleeves and you
need not be afraid of the one described
It is hardly necessary to say that all
waist trimming should taper from
shoulder to waist point and be length-
wise and that the same effects should be
maintained m skirt draperies
NOTES
The prettiest tea cloths have hem-
stitched borders
Golden tan gloves with pointed cuffs
are the favorites for driving
It is said that dress waists will be worn
longer made to extend over the hips
next winter
Women do not now wear a profusion of
underskirts One is now considered suf-
ficient
Thus far plain royal out velvet prom-
ises to bo the rulinc material in tho mak-
ing up of fine millinery
The black ribbon collars now seen on
light dresses are fastened with small
Rhinostone buckles
With the Recamier wrapper which is
a simple shortwaisted gown is worn a
turnedover collar of embroidery with
cuffs to match
Some of the new smart hats have trans-
parent brims made of black lace stiffened
by means of very fine wire inserted in the
edging aud patterns and lace bows for
trimming are rendered firm by the same
means
Jets have taken on a determinedly
longer lease of life Delicately cut jets
strung on very fine wire in lace designs
and foliage and floral imitations overlay
velvet in many of the imported models
With low shoes of black or bronze
kid silk stockings are worn in dark
shades of brown blue or green finely
streaked with bright red yellow or
white blaek stockings striped in colors
are also fashionable
Another pretty and popular fancy is to
let in long scarfs of silk muslin to the
seams at the back of the bodice and
bring them round over the shoulders like
fichus tying them upon the 0030m and
letting the sash ends hang on the skirt
The latest in parasols are those covered
with black net with very large dots
placed plainly over colored silk A thick
niching of net with notched edges
torms a border and is also put in the cen-
ter around the ferule Dark wood sticks
are used for such parasols
The new veils have large embroidered
polka spots and they are still tied under
the chin b ut without lace border For
capotes plain tulle is used coming just to
the mouth or below as the wearer may
find most becoming
For very young ladies are fichus com-
posed of extra wide sash ribbons These
are joined diagonally at trie middle of the
yJHj o
O
mention a
19Inch Faille Silk
All colors at 1 worth 150
20Incli Gros cle Suez
Colored silks extra weights
and brillliant lustres at 1
worth 175
22In Solid Cliallies
At 15c worth 25c
36inch Henriettas all new
sn es at 35c
2vnch black chantilly lace
at lorth 175
27inch black guipure at
125 worth 225
9
Mj Immense stock of Slimmer Goods is somewhat reduced but still fill
with the rarest bargains saT
come too < late for the first gr
tilings we have in store
ose who
ew of the good
You can read the abJVe then come and see the balance These bargains
cant last Ion
back crossed In front with a few plaits
to conform them to the figure and
knotted at the waist behind This is a
style revived from one popular the latter
part of the last century
On some of the new sleeves tho mate-
rials are again shaped to give increased
height to the shoulderpoints A deep
cut is then made in the fore part which
is more or less long Into this space a-
piece of material shaped like an elon-
gated diamond cut in half is intro-
duced Where no alien fabric is em-
ployed passementerie similarly shaped
is laid upon the sleeve
Household
A savory smell of boiling fruit suggests
that this is the season for preserving and
for preparing genuine fruit jellies to
furnish variety in tho winter months
when most housekeepers feel the need
of a store laid by It is true that within
the last quarter of a century canned
fruits and gelatine jelley of this it may-
be truthfully said call it by what name
you will it tastes the same have
largely supplanted the rich preserve and
clear jelley that was the pride of the
hostess and the admiration of her
guests but in no sense do these
factory products equal the dainty con-
serves upon which the housekeeper of
thatday bestowed so much care
There is a reaction in favor of home-
made preserves and the womans ex-
change in almost all the cities have or-
ders for these from the fastidious 400
and delicately nurtured women have
found their halfforgotten skill in this
high art of domestic life available as a
means of support for themselves and
families It is to be hoped that many of
the Juno brides are now snugly esconced
in their own homes and have ere this de-
veloped a t ste for domestic duties and
a pride in their successful efforts
and that there is now a laudable desire
to fill the pantry shelves with trophies of
their skill in the art preservative
For such work a charcoal furnace is
very convenient and in one season almost
repays the cost which is trifling The
next essential is a porcelain preserving
kettle better than any other then
sound fresh fruit and the best of white
sugar These in connection with pains-
taking patience will give most satisfac-
tory returns
Peaches abound most in this section
and many people have a penchant for
this oldfashioned preserve After select-
ing the fruit with care it should be pared
smoothly and halved It requires some
skill to remove the seed if of the cling
variety but the knack is soon acquired
As soon as cut the pieces should be
dropped into cold wateras the air makes
them dark and when there are enough
prepared weigh carefully The old rule
pound for pound holds good yet
but if the preserve is put into Mason jars
less sugar will answer Ten pounds is as
much as ought to be undertaken at once
Let the fruit aud sugar stand together
over night and in the morning pour care-
fully into the kettle As soon as it is
scalding hot remoYe the fruit with a
skimmer on to larse dishes and set in the
sun Let the syrup boil rapidly and
skim carefully using the white
of egg to clarify it WJGen tne
syrup is the consistent of
honey put in a few pieces of the peaches
at a time and let them boil until clear
After all the fruit has been thoroughly
oooked let itbe again placed in the sun
while the syrup is reboiled Let this be
thick as possible as it grows thinner by
standing Then strain carefully while
hot over the fruit and as soon as con-
venient put it into the jars cover the
All CrossBarred
Stripped and figured lawns
going this week at 50c on
the 1
Embroidered flouncings 2
inches wide as follows
Reduced from
1 to 60c
125 to 75c
S150 to 1
S2 to 125
250 to 150
3 to 2
Torchon laces narrows em-
broideries and insertions going
at 50c on the 1
gf
top with a brandied paper or a piece of
Canton flannel and if properly closed
and set in a dark cool place there will
be little danger of fomentation
Jelly making from peaches is rather
uncertain The fruit must not be quite
ripe and of an acid variety Sometimes
in order to make it congeal it is necessary
to use citric acid or lemon juice
Grandmas rule measure for meas-
ure can be violated to the extent of a
little less sugar than juice In all cases
when makine jelly it is well to hold some
of the sugar back and add it by the
spoonful toward the last In jelly mak-
ing the boiling must be fierce and the
syrup hot when the sugar is put in if at
the end of fifteen minutes by dropping
a little into cold water it shows no dis-
position to jelly it is safe to add sugar
but if it inclines to string like candy it
needs more acid
A delicious apple preserve may jbe
made by making a syrup of threequar
ters of a pound of sugar to each pound of
apples add a sliced lemon put in the
apples boil until transparent and place
in a jar Boil the syrup until very thick
and pour over tnem
To preserve pears peel cut in halves
core and weigh allow threequarters of
a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit
Make syrup and add to the fruit When
donetake up and place in glass jars
Boil the syrup low and pour over and
seal
Preserved crab apples have a pecul-
iarly piquant flavor Put them in a ket-
tle and keep scalding hot tor an hour
add a small lump of alum
Take the fruit up and skin leaving on
the stems Add as many pounds of sugar
as fruit to the water and boil to syrup
Cut watermelon into fancy shapes and
put in strong bnne cover with grape
leaves and set away When ready to
preserve soak in fresh water Dissolve
four tablespoonfuls of alum to every gal-
lon of water put in the rind simmer un-
til green then soak out the alum by put-
ting the rind into cold water Pour
boiling water on half a pound of ginger
and let it stand boil and add three
ounces of mace and sugar to make asyrup
put in tho rind and boil quietly let It
cool over night then boil as before add-
ing a pound of cut sugar to every pound
of rind take up the rind and put in jar
boil the syrup until very thick and pour
over it This makes a particularly nice
preserve
Space only permits a short talk on pre-
serving by this old method but as home-
made canned fruit is infinitely superior
to the bonghten some plain direc-
tions will be given next week for this
process that is not so troublesome as the
young housekeeper may imagine
1
ItECIPES
Cream muffins One pint of creairi
threejeggs a pinch of salt flour enough
to make thiek batter
Fried potatoes Slice them very thin
and drop into cold water Drain for a
few minutes on acollander and drop a
few at a time into boiliug lard an inch
deep Skim them out and drain on a
sieve over the fire to dry Sift a little
salt over them
Lemon sauce One teacupful of sugar
onehalf teacup butter one tablespoon-
ful of flour all well mixed together Add
also grated rind of lemon and a pint of
boiling water Boil five minutes when
ready to serve squeeze into sauce juice of
one lemon
Veal salad Boil a knuckle of veal in
six quarts of water when tender remote
the bones chop the meat and add the
juice which should be mostly absorbed
and twocups of cracker crumbs cinna
IContiimedon ficelfth Page
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Fort Worth Daily Gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.), Vol. 13, No. 311, Ed. 1, Sunday, August 18, 1889, newspaper, August 18, 1889; Fort Worth, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth87231/m1/9/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu.; .